Jacquemus started his own label when he was 19 under his mother maiden name, Jacquemus. His collections are deconstructed and surrealist. His creative approach is pushing the boundaries of French fashion with a child-like spirit and sense of freedom. His work is often featuring asymmetrical designs, oversized silhouettes, experimental make up and shoeless or topless models. Jacquemus has a strong social media presence, helped by playful presentation of his images on Instagram.
What did you dream of becoming when you were a kid?
When I was a kid, I wanted to write my own biography and shoot films. I was literally obsessed with images and I guess if I’m into fashion today it’s not because I was obsessed by the idea of a garment but because I was obsessed by telling stories and shooting films.
My films are very autobiographical, each collection is a piece of my history in a way.
How did you start?
I started in a very simple manner.
Fashion is about clothes, I made clothes and published pictures of them on my website.
In a naïve, spontaneous sort of way, at 19, broke, with no relationships, just massive motivation!
How would you describe yourself?
I’d like to see myself as naïve, ultra-simple and natural, just like my clothes, that’s the way I’d like to be.
How do you work?
Very simply, by exchanging, with friends, with my best girlfriend whom I’ve known since I was 8, it’s family, it’s simple.
Initially it was my friends who supported my project.
What is your take on fashion? What do you want your products to say?
There is a certain philosophy and a way of thinking that I put into fashion: don’t brag, and be as simple as possible.
I’d like people who come to a Jacquemus show to feel the relaxed atmosphere, just like myself, the family environment, with products that come straight from the heart.
Who or what inspires you?
French films, music and culture inspire me most, from Jacques Demy to Agnès Varda, as well as typical 80s movies such as L’effrontée starring Charlotte Gainsbourg.
What moves you?
Poetry of all kinds, everyday poetry.
What part of your life influences your designs the most?
It doesn’t even feel like going to work, there’s no limit and that can be a problem.
I never know when I’m working and when I’m not. It’s all my life, my brand is my mother’s name, it’s not something that I do on the side to build my CV, it’s my life I’m putting in, my whole life. You can see it in one of my shows, when I talk about an accident that happened to me, or in another, when I talk about my holidays at Grande Motte, everything is autobiographical.
Is traveling regularly also an important aspect of your creative process?
Not really, what I value most is meeting people.
What was the last place that really fascinated you?
Marseille is the place I love and will always fascinate me.
Did you create your brand by following your instinct?
What is the main challenge that your brand is facing today?
I don’t want to think in those terms.
I try and do things instinctively. This comes with worries, problems and things you need to know…
What was the IFM diagnosis on the management of your brand?
We had understood many things about sales, about communication.
On what aspects did the IFM help you?
On strategic and business issues, how to structure a “business plan”, what a nice word!, that sort of things.
What is the next step for your brand?
My dream isn’t working for a brand.
My dream 50 years from now would be young people wanting to take over my brand.
I wish more young designers remained in charge of their own companies.
It’s important to create something today that speaks to our generation, that talks about youth, and remains that way. For me it’s so obvious.